Tạm biệt

Today we are saying goodbye to our 24 days of travel. Sean and I had a wonderful ride and we're sad to see it end. However, we are very much looking forward to seeing our wonderful friends and family...and Porter!

Saigon was wonderfully different from Hanoi. The biggest differences: the incredible command of the English language and the FOOD! I felt right at home with all the local dishes and Sean was hanging like a pro. We had everything from Pho (of course) to banh xeo to pate a chaud. Each was more exquisite than anything I've tasted at home...even when my family cooked (sorry Aunties!).

But now we're looking forward to the flavors of SF. See you soon everyone!

Scootering

Wednesday started out normally enough, though by the end of the day we both looked back on it as one of the great ones. For some reason we had gotten it into our heads that I would be able to figure out how to operate a scooter safely enough to transport us around the island. Silly, but we were convinced.

At 9am we rented the scooter and when I told the rental agent I had never driven one, he gave me about thirty seconds of instruction and then told me to go figure it out. I suppose that's probably the best way. I took about 10 minutes doing laps up and down the resort driveway, something that had the gate attendants doubled over in laughter. For the most part I was comfortable but I could tell that turning the scooter around and heading in the other direction was going to be a problem. I firmly planned on keeping it pointed in the same direction for most of the day.

Confident we were good to go, Jas hopped on the back and we headed south along the island's coast. About 8km south of our hotel is Chaweng beach, the most populous area on the island. We didn't quite know what to expect but were pretty sure the most populous area on the island would be able to provide us with breakfast. What we found there was a clone of any Mexican spring break town you've ever been to: millions of t shirt shops, lots of open air bars, and the general air of debauchery. We didn't spend a whole lot of time there and quickly got back on the road south.

The weather was beautiful and so were our spirits. We had a map to consult but for the most part took lefts whenever presented with a choice so as to stay along the coast. There wasn't a whole lot of traffic which helped me get comfortable at speed and we spent about an hour exploring the coastal roads of the southern part of the island.

Around lunchtime we started looking for a place to eat and found it at a resort on the southwestern tip of the island. It appeared to be a place that had once been the very pinnacle of luxury but has been easily eclipsed by the modern behemoths going up around the island. We had the beach to ourselves and were served delicious drinks and food. We enjoyed everything at a very leisurely pace, totally content and exactly where we wanted to be.

At this point we had gone halfway around the island and decided to keep going and drive all the way around. With no plans, we ambled up the western coast taking in the views and enjoying the day. A little past the midway point we saw a sign pointing towards a waterfall and naturally deviated to check it out. Though we had made a pact to exert no energy whatsoever on this trip, the waterfall turned out to be at the end of a 1.5km hike that had us sweaty and excited for a dip in the promised swimming hole.

We were not disappointed. The water at the base of the falls was refreshingly cool and we spent the better part of half an hour simply swimming around and cooling off. The hike back wasn't nearly as bad as the hike in and we were back to the scooter in no time. As we hopped on and started it up we were greeted by a tremendous thunderclap from just off the coast.

What did we do? We extended our middle fingers to the sky and continued down the road. We were summarily punished for our insolence. The storm hit us just south of the northwest tip of the island. If you've ever seen Karate Kid II then you've seen the storm that hit us ("You are a coward Miyage!"). I was in swim trunks and a T-shirt and Jas was wearing a sun dress over her bikini. You could say we were prepared to ride a scooter through a rainstorm. The wind was blowing palm fronds everywhere and we were instantly soaked to the bone. It was absolutely amazing. We rounded the NW corner and found some shelter in a little restaurant to wait out the worst of it. We were soaked, cold, and elated.

After 20 minutes it didn't show any signs of letting up so we went back into the teeth of the storm and gritted out the remaining 20km to our hotel. We managed to get lost a few times, ruin our map in the rain, make two death defying right hand turns across traffic, and ultimately found our hotel in the storm. After the best hot showers of our lives, we relaxed over an excellent dinner at the hotel and retired early, completely satisfied with one of the most adventurous days of the trip so far.

Upgrades

Hey everyone, Sean here. We've arrived in Thailand and it's quite different here from the last two countries we've visited. We knew we were in for a change when the beers at the airport cost us $5 each, approximately 5 times more than any other beer in Cambodia or Vietnam.

The airport was sleek and modern and well equipped to take our money, which we managed to resist, mostly. They don't accept the dollar as readily as they do in Cambodia or Vietnam, which is good as it pertains to national pride and bad as it pertains to our convenience (which is very important).

The plan all along was for the Thailand portion of the trip to be completely relaxing and over the top luxurious compared to the rest of the trip. We were nervous that these dreams wouldn't be realized because all we had to go on as far as the resort was concerned was a tiny little photo that could easily have been photoshopped.

Turns out we needn't have worried. Behold:

It was a bit overcast on our first morning, which isn't as bad as it sounds but I'm hoping for a partial refund. We paid for the sun damnit.

We ate poolside at the hotel on the first night overlooking the ocean. The resort is built into the hillside at the end of a peninsula and offers breathtaking views of both the bay and the ocean. Our room, sadly, has a breathtaking view of a dirty bamboo fence. We tried to upgrade and the only room available was a villa with its own pool, jacuzzi, and bathroom the size of most bedrooms. The room didn't have the best view and we weren't willing to pay triple the cost so we passed. The infinity pool overlooking the bay will do just fine, thank you.

We spent most of our first day (today) laying by the pool drinking margaritas, reading books, dipping in the pool, and getting some sun. Ok, Jas was getting sun and I was doing my best to avoid it. When you're as pale as I am the sun is not quite so friendly. Somehow I still managed to burn my shoulders. Sun 1 Sean 0.

We did a little bit of exploring in the afternoon and discovered a few beach-side restaurants offering decent prices and broad menus. We wound up dining at one, sitting at a table on the beach a few meters from the surf while the sun set spectacularly behind the clouds. I'm really not trying to rub it in, but this place is downright fantastic.


Tomorrow we're going to rent a scooter which I'm going to learn how to drive and take us around the island exploring. Yes, it is as dangerous as it sounds but we're going to do it anyway. Oh, and they drive on the left side of the road here, a nice little obstacle we probably don't need. Pray for us. In the afternoon we're going to rent jet skis and rip around the bay for awhile. Should be good times.

Siem Reap

We arrived in Cambodia a few days ago to a welcoming group of airport employees. We knew before leaving the States that we would need some additional passport size photos in order to obtain visas at the Cambodia and Thailand borders. Thinking that we would be able to pick up our checked luggage before applying for our visas, we left these pics in our bags. WRONG. What to do, what to do? The employees in the airport had a brilliant idea of just letting us through the visa checkpoint, essentially onto Cambodia grounds to grab our luggage and come right back through all the customs and passport checking lines. That would never fly in the U.S. and especially not Vietnam. That was just a precursor to the lackadaisical nature and the kindness we were about to discover with the Cambodian people.

But this hospitatlity and courtesy of the locals was found to be a bit overwhelming when we entered downtown Siem Reap. Even on the drive in from the airport we passed by many 4- and 5- star hotels and resorts, making the place seem more like a destination site in Mexico than some poverty-stricken country. Every establishment within a two-block radius of the main drag was strictly catered to Westerners. Some of the cafes, if in SF, would be considered "the place to be and be seen," that is how chic and flashy they are. There are faux "dive bars," upscale Italian restaurants, and even a Mexican joint complete with a happy hour special of $1 tacos and margaritas (you can bet we capitalized on that!). They are making sure that the American dollar is well spent. And yup, it is the American dollar they want to see, not the local currency of riels.

What a culture shock after being in Northern Vietnam for the first 10 days of our trip. I mean, we're not really backpacking or roughing it, we're living the life of luxury for a few bucks! But as we've spent a few more days here, it's all starting to become more clear. The people work in these establishments and make us, the tourists, as comfortable as possible and they do this with all sincerity. I venture that this means we will be more comfortable to spend our money and possibly spread the word as to how comfortable it is to travel here, perhaps even breaking the stigmas about travelling to this country.

But the truth is even though it may be cheap as well as comfortable, the people that do live here don't live in that same level of "comfort." They live as we imagined them to live but have created this illusion of Western niceties in order to bring forth the dollar. And to be honest, I can't blame them. It probably wasn't some Cambodian entrepreneur that had the clever idea of creating these luxuries for the travellers. Instead (and a mere speculation) it was probably another Westerner with decent marketing ideas who invested a little but is probably getting a lot in return, while only allowing the local profits to be minimal...minimal but more than a previous daily wage, so why wouldn't a Cambodian participate? Again, I don't blame them.

Anyhow, Sean and I have learned so much about the culture here...touring almost 15 temples in Angkor and beyond and having a suprising but intimate run-in with a Buddhist nun; visiting a floating village where a small population of Vietnamese live but can never leave because they have no visas or passports; learning via museums and even from our tuk-tuk driver the very recent and still raw history of Cambodia's civil war; and visiting a few of the many institutions that are devoted to the support and education of the children so that they can live of life they can be proud of and not become beggars (as there are many).

Those margaritas sure were tasty at first, but now we think twice about going into such establishments when just a few blocks from the city center are several food carts and stalls just waiting for a wandering American to give them a chance.

But wherever you decide to get your meal, if any of you decide to make your way southeast, tips are never expected but can go a long, long way. You may not ever remember that $2 tip you leave your server when you return to your home country, but it sure can make a profound difference in their lives.

Ok, lots of text...my apologies. Pictures to come.

Bia hoi!

Most of you are aware of the Madden love for beer. Coming from Portland, aka "Brewtopia," we like to think of ourselves as hopheads. Last summer, we indulged in the goodness that Germany and the Czech Republic had to offer, and now we find ourselves in Vietnam. The selection is minimal and the taste is incomparable to our old-faithful BBP (Black Butte Porter), but when it's as hot and humid as it is here in Hanoi, anything that is cold and refreshing will do.

Besides the oh-so delicious Vietnamese iced-coffees (stronger and sweeter than any coffee you'll ever taste and dimly pictured below), they unfortunately only come in small doses and just leave you craving for more.

The beer, however, comes in half-liter bottles and cheaper the our beloved caffeinated friend. To combat the heat and dehydration, we have regularly welcomed the bottled delight. Ha Noi Beer and Tiger Beer are the most common domestic types from the n0rth and south respectively. They are both fine beers that do the trick when you're sweating profusely over your umpteenth bowl of pho.

(Forgive my goofy expression)

Then last night, after we pampered ourselves with a massage, we stumbled across several bia hois, places with Vietnam's very own microbrew. It's a pilsner first introduced to Vietnam by the Czechs and is brewed daily without any preservatives, so it is meant to be enjoyed immediately. The "establishments" that offer bia hoi are actually just empty stretches of sidewalk with enough room to sport a keg and several plastic chairs. According to Lonely Planet, "Put US $10 in your pocket and you will be able to afford nearly 100 beers." Sean and I just had a few bucks but managed to do more than quench or thirst.

(The current exchange rate is US $1 = 16,000 dong)

Playing cards and drinking with the locals.

Tram phan tram! (translated as "Cheers!")

R & R

Ahhhh...we're back in Hanoi once again. After a night train to Sapa, a couple days worth of hiking, another night train (but a dreadful one) we have a couple days of rest and relaxation (and laundry!) before heading to Cambodia on Wednesday.

Sapa is a mountainous region in the northwest part of Vietnam, very near to the Chinese border. It is an area that is just filled with terraced lands used for the farming of rice (lots and lots of rice), corn, and even marijuana.

There are several indigenous groups that live in the area, and we were fortunate to meet some very kind Black H'mong and the Red Dzao people.

Although they each have their own native dialect, they are able to speak some Vietnamese and have learned some English phrases to help sell their goods to tourists. Sean was able to get some great shots of the Black H'mong people as we trekked through the crops and through some villages. We interrupted a classroom of young H'mong children learning math. I think they were thrilled to get a break and meet us...all except for this young man.

On the road again

Sean and I just retured from a fantastic 3 day/2 night trip to Halong Bay, whic is about a 3-hour drive from Hanoi. We decided to go via a tour company as most people (and Lonely Planet) recommend this as the best way to see the sights of the bay. As we approached the bay by van, I was seriously in awe with the beauty that was before me. I know, totally cheezy, but I kid you not, dear friends - this was the most BEAUTIFUL and SPECTACULAR thing I have ever seen. I guess at one point it was on the ballot for one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Just imagine a body of water filled with over 3000 islands that are each reminiscent of Jurassic Park. And within some of these mounds of green, there are these majestic limestone caves that are absolutely remarkable. Not to mention the multitude of species of both flora and fauna that are found no where else but here.

We sailed on junks (I think they look like Pirate ships arrrrggggh), sun-bathed aboard them, kayaked and swam with jellyfish, hiked to one of the highest peaks on Cat Ba island (the largest island in the bay), and even saw mokeys with our naked eyes on, what else, Monkey Island.

It was an incredible delight and defintely worth every penny, which was only a mere $60 for all transfers, meals, lodging, activities, fees, etc. Can you believe that?

We had just a few hours back in Hanoi for some dinner, some beers, and a little internet time before we head off to Sapa for the next couple days.

I will try to post some pictures when we return to Hanoi on Monday.

Hanoi by foot

Sean decided to take command of the day and guided us quite smoothly through the a couple of sites in Hanoi. First stop: The Temple of Literature. Entrance fee: 31 cents.


It was founded in 1070 by Emperor Ly Thanh Tong, who dedicated it to Confucious to honor scholars and men of literary accomplishments. Six years later, Vietnam's first university was established here to educate sons of mandarins.

Then off we went to the Hoa lo Prison Museum, which was built in 1896 by the French. For another mere 31 cents (or 5000 VND) we wandered through the exhibits which were primarily focused on the Vietnamese struggle for independence from France. Surprisingly, very little was mentioned about its later use, which was for imprisoning U.S. POWs during the Vietnam War. This picture shows a somewhat clever and probably inexpensive way to prevent prisoners from escaping over the walls.

Having spent so much money or toursity attractions, Sean and I continuted to explore the city by foot, wandering the rest of Central Hanoi towards our hotel in the Old Quarter. We wandered through some street markets that featured hand made silks and sidewalk Pho, stopped at a cafe for our umpteenth Vietnamese iced coffee, and finally settled into a local eatery for some journal writing, people watching, and a bite to eat.

Bamboozled by chestnuts

After many grueling hours of turbulence, unexpected long layovers, and some additional delays, Sean and I are safe and sound in Hanoi. Our hotel is beyond what we expected in quality and the city is just bustling. Bustling so much so, I just about thought our driver from airport transfer was going to kill someone, perhaps even a few people, on our commute to the city. There are no rules whatsoever, no lights, no helmet law, nothing.

We had a whole half day to wander the chaotic streets and explore what was around us. Like many touristy areas, there are several street vendors and panhandlers trying to get your cold, hard-earned U.S. dollars. We were approached by one after another trying to sell us fruit, travel books (no thanks, but the one we have in our hands is sufficient), and cigarette lighters (?). I did watch one not-so-offensive merchant sitting on the sidewalk and slowly peeling chestnuts one by one. I'm sure it took her a good minute or so to break off the outer skin of one lonely chestnut. Then plop, into a bag that she could fill with about 20 chestnuts for her try to sell us pesky tourists. I was sold. I a) love chestnuts and b) couldn't believe she spends her days peeling those fingertip numbing shells. I asked her for a bag and she mumbled "thirty." Thirty what? Dollars? Um, no. Dong? Perhaps, but that would make the bag about $2 US. Seems kind of spendy when I just had a beer for 87 cents. I panicked and threw two $1 US bills at her and even followed it with "Are you sure that's enough?" Actually, it was more than enough, and I must've looked like I was made of money. I was then accosted by 3 other vendors, one of which was selling her chestnuts for 50 cents!

Bamboozled, I tell ya. But those suckers are a bitch to peel. I've done it and it sucks...and now I'm just justifying my poor judgment. I really just bamboozled myself.