Bia hoi!

Most of you are aware of the Madden love for beer. Coming from Portland, aka "Brewtopia," we like to think of ourselves as hopheads. Last summer, we indulged in the goodness that Germany and the Czech Republic had to offer, and now we find ourselves in Vietnam. The selection is minimal and the taste is incomparable to our old-faithful BBP (Black Butte Porter), but when it's as hot and humid as it is here in Hanoi, anything that is cold and refreshing will do.

Besides the oh-so delicious Vietnamese iced-coffees (stronger and sweeter than any coffee you'll ever taste and dimly pictured below), they unfortunately only come in small doses and just leave you craving for more.

The beer, however, comes in half-liter bottles and cheaper the our beloved caffeinated friend. To combat the heat and dehydration, we have regularly welcomed the bottled delight. Ha Noi Beer and Tiger Beer are the most common domestic types from the n0rth and south respectively. They are both fine beers that do the trick when you're sweating profusely over your umpteenth bowl of pho.

(Forgive my goofy expression)

Then last night, after we pampered ourselves with a massage, we stumbled across several bia hois, places with Vietnam's very own microbrew. It's a pilsner first introduced to Vietnam by the Czechs and is brewed daily without any preservatives, so it is meant to be enjoyed immediately. The "establishments" that offer bia hoi are actually just empty stretches of sidewalk with enough room to sport a keg and several plastic chairs. According to Lonely Planet, "Put US $10 in your pocket and you will be able to afford nearly 100 beers." Sean and I just had a few bucks but managed to do more than quench or thirst.

(The current exchange rate is US $1 = 16,000 dong)

Playing cards and drinking with the locals.

Tram phan tram! (translated as "Cheers!")

R & R

Ahhhh...we're back in Hanoi once again. After a night train to Sapa, a couple days worth of hiking, another night train (but a dreadful one) we have a couple days of rest and relaxation (and laundry!) before heading to Cambodia on Wednesday.

Sapa is a mountainous region in the northwest part of Vietnam, very near to the Chinese border. It is an area that is just filled with terraced lands used for the farming of rice (lots and lots of rice), corn, and even marijuana.

There are several indigenous groups that live in the area, and we were fortunate to meet some very kind Black H'mong and the Red Dzao people.

Although they each have their own native dialect, they are able to speak some Vietnamese and have learned some English phrases to help sell their goods to tourists. Sean was able to get some great shots of the Black H'mong people as we trekked through the crops and through some villages. We interrupted a classroom of young H'mong children learning math. I think they were thrilled to get a break and meet us...all except for this young man.

On the road again

Sean and I just retured from a fantastic 3 day/2 night trip to Halong Bay, whic is about a 3-hour drive from Hanoi. We decided to go via a tour company as most people (and Lonely Planet) recommend this as the best way to see the sights of the bay. As we approached the bay by van, I was seriously in awe with the beauty that was before me. I know, totally cheezy, but I kid you not, dear friends - this was the most BEAUTIFUL and SPECTACULAR thing I have ever seen. I guess at one point it was on the ballot for one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Just imagine a body of water filled with over 3000 islands that are each reminiscent of Jurassic Park. And within some of these mounds of green, there are these majestic limestone caves that are absolutely remarkable. Not to mention the multitude of species of both flora and fauna that are found no where else but here.

We sailed on junks (I think they look like Pirate ships arrrrggggh), sun-bathed aboard them, kayaked and swam with jellyfish, hiked to one of the highest peaks on Cat Ba island (the largest island in the bay), and even saw mokeys with our naked eyes on, what else, Monkey Island.

It was an incredible delight and defintely worth every penny, which was only a mere $60 for all transfers, meals, lodging, activities, fees, etc. Can you believe that?

We had just a few hours back in Hanoi for some dinner, some beers, and a little internet time before we head off to Sapa for the next couple days.

I will try to post some pictures when we return to Hanoi on Monday.

Hanoi by foot

Sean decided to take command of the day and guided us quite smoothly through the a couple of sites in Hanoi. First stop: The Temple of Literature. Entrance fee: 31 cents.


It was founded in 1070 by Emperor Ly Thanh Tong, who dedicated it to Confucious to honor scholars and men of literary accomplishments. Six years later, Vietnam's first university was established here to educate sons of mandarins.

Then off we went to the Hoa lo Prison Museum, which was built in 1896 by the French. For another mere 31 cents (or 5000 VND) we wandered through the exhibits which were primarily focused on the Vietnamese struggle for independence from France. Surprisingly, very little was mentioned about its later use, which was for imprisoning U.S. POWs during the Vietnam War. This picture shows a somewhat clever and probably inexpensive way to prevent prisoners from escaping over the walls.

Having spent so much money or toursity attractions, Sean and I continuted to explore the city by foot, wandering the rest of Central Hanoi towards our hotel in the Old Quarter. We wandered through some street markets that featured hand made silks and sidewalk Pho, stopped at a cafe for our umpteenth Vietnamese iced coffee, and finally settled into a local eatery for some journal writing, people watching, and a bite to eat.

Bamboozled by chestnuts

After many grueling hours of turbulence, unexpected long layovers, and some additional delays, Sean and I are safe and sound in Hanoi. Our hotel is beyond what we expected in quality and the city is just bustling. Bustling so much so, I just about thought our driver from airport transfer was going to kill someone, perhaps even a few people, on our commute to the city. There are no rules whatsoever, no lights, no helmet law, nothing.

We had a whole half day to wander the chaotic streets and explore what was around us. Like many touristy areas, there are several street vendors and panhandlers trying to get your cold, hard-earned U.S. dollars. We were approached by one after another trying to sell us fruit, travel books (no thanks, but the one we have in our hands is sufficient), and cigarette lighters (?). I did watch one not-so-offensive merchant sitting on the sidewalk and slowly peeling chestnuts one by one. I'm sure it took her a good minute or so to break off the outer skin of one lonely chestnut. Then plop, into a bag that she could fill with about 20 chestnuts for her try to sell us pesky tourists. I was sold. I a) love chestnuts and b) couldn't believe she spends her days peeling those fingertip numbing shells. I asked her for a bag and she mumbled "thirty." Thirty what? Dollars? Um, no. Dong? Perhaps, but that would make the bag about $2 US. Seems kind of spendy when I just had a beer for 87 cents. I panicked and threw two $1 US bills at her and even followed it with "Are you sure that's enough?" Actually, it was more than enough, and I must've looked like I was made of money. I was then accosted by 3 other vendors, one of which was selling her chestnuts for 50 cents!

Bamboozled, I tell ya. But those suckers are a bitch to peel. I've done it and it sucks...and now I'm just justifying my poor judgment. I really just bamboozled myself.