Siem Reap

We arrived in Cambodia a few days ago to a welcoming group of airport employees. We knew before leaving the States that we would need some additional passport size photos in order to obtain visas at the Cambodia and Thailand borders. Thinking that we would be able to pick up our checked luggage before applying for our visas, we left these pics in our bags. WRONG. What to do, what to do? The employees in the airport had a brilliant idea of just letting us through the visa checkpoint, essentially onto Cambodia grounds to grab our luggage and come right back through all the customs and passport checking lines. That would never fly in the U.S. and especially not Vietnam. That was just a precursor to the lackadaisical nature and the kindness we were about to discover with the Cambodian people.

But this hospitatlity and courtesy of the locals was found to be a bit overwhelming when we entered downtown Siem Reap. Even on the drive in from the airport we passed by many 4- and 5- star hotels and resorts, making the place seem more like a destination site in Mexico than some poverty-stricken country. Every establishment within a two-block radius of the main drag was strictly catered to Westerners. Some of the cafes, if in SF, would be considered "the place to be and be seen," that is how chic and flashy they are. There are faux "dive bars," upscale Italian restaurants, and even a Mexican joint complete with a happy hour special of $1 tacos and margaritas (you can bet we capitalized on that!). They are making sure that the American dollar is well spent. And yup, it is the American dollar they want to see, not the local currency of riels.

What a culture shock after being in Northern Vietnam for the first 10 days of our trip. I mean, we're not really backpacking or roughing it, we're living the life of luxury for a few bucks! But as we've spent a few more days here, it's all starting to become more clear. The people work in these establishments and make us, the tourists, as comfortable as possible and they do this with all sincerity. I venture that this means we will be more comfortable to spend our money and possibly spread the word as to how comfortable it is to travel here, perhaps even breaking the stigmas about travelling to this country.

But the truth is even though it may be cheap as well as comfortable, the people that do live here don't live in that same level of "comfort." They live as we imagined them to live but have created this illusion of Western niceties in order to bring forth the dollar. And to be honest, I can't blame them. It probably wasn't some Cambodian entrepreneur that had the clever idea of creating these luxuries for the travellers. Instead (and a mere speculation) it was probably another Westerner with decent marketing ideas who invested a little but is probably getting a lot in return, while only allowing the local profits to be minimal...minimal but more than a previous daily wage, so why wouldn't a Cambodian participate? Again, I don't blame them.

Anyhow, Sean and I have learned so much about the culture here...touring almost 15 temples in Angkor and beyond and having a suprising but intimate run-in with a Buddhist nun; visiting a floating village where a small population of Vietnamese live but can never leave because they have no visas or passports; learning via museums and even from our tuk-tuk driver the very recent and still raw history of Cambodia's civil war; and visiting a few of the many institutions that are devoted to the support and education of the children so that they can live of life they can be proud of and not become beggars (as there are many).

Those margaritas sure were tasty at first, but now we think twice about going into such establishments when just a few blocks from the city center are several food carts and stalls just waiting for a wandering American to give them a chance.

But wherever you decide to get your meal, if any of you decide to make your way southeast, tips are never expected but can go a long, long way. You may not ever remember that $2 tip you leave your server when you return to your home country, but it sure can make a profound difference in their lives.

Ok, lots of text...my apologies. Pictures to come.

Bia hoi!

Most of you are aware of the Madden love for beer. Coming from Portland, aka "Brewtopia," we like to think of ourselves as hopheads. Last summer, we indulged in the goodness that Germany and the Czech Republic had to offer, and now we find ourselves in Vietnam. The selection is minimal and the taste is incomparable to our old-faithful BBP (Black Butte Porter), but when it's as hot and humid as it is here in Hanoi, anything that is cold and refreshing will do.

Besides the oh-so delicious Vietnamese iced-coffees (stronger and sweeter than any coffee you'll ever taste and dimly pictured below), they unfortunately only come in small doses and just leave you craving for more.

The beer, however, comes in half-liter bottles and cheaper the our beloved caffeinated friend. To combat the heat and dehydration, we have regularly welcomed the bottled delight. Ha Noi Beer and Tiger Beer are the most common domestic types from the n0rth and south respectively. They are both fine beers that do the trick when you're sweating profusely over your umpteenth bowl of pho.

(Forgive my goofy expression)

Then last night, after we pampered ourselves with a massage, we stumbled across several bia hois, places with Vietnam's very own microbrew. It's a pilsner first introduced to Vietnam by the Czechs and is brewed daily without any preservatives, so it is meant to be enjoyed immediately. The "establishments" that offer bia hoi are actually just empty stretches of sidewalk with enough room to sport a keg and several plastic chairs. According to Lonely Planet, "Put US $10 in your pocket and you will be able to afford nearly 100 beers." Sean and I just had a few bucks but managed to do more than quench or thirst.

(The current exchange rate is US $1 = 16,000 dong)

Playing cards and drinking with the locals.

Tram phan tram! (translated as "Cheers!")

R & R

Ahhhh...we're back in Hanoi once again. After a night train to Sapa, a couple days worth of hiking, another night train (but a dreadful one) we have a couple days of rest and relaxation (and laundry!) before heading to Cambodia on Wednesday.

Sapa is a mountainous region in the northwest part of Vietnam, very near to the Chinese border. It is an area that is just filled with terraced lands used for the farming of rice (lots and lots of rice), corn, and even marijuana.

There are several indigenous groups that live in the area, and we were fortunate to meet some very kind Black H'mong and the Red Dzao people.

Although they each have their own native dialect, they are able to speak some Vietnamese and have learned some English phrases to help sell their goods to tourists. Sean was able to get some great shots of the Black H'mong people as we trekked through the crops and through some villages. We interrupted a classroom of young H'mong children learning math. I think they were thrilled to get a break and meet us...all except for this young man.

On the road again

Sean and I just retured from a fantastic 3 day/2 night trip to Halong Bay, whic is about a 3-hour drive from Hanoi. We decided to go via a tour company as most people (and Lonely Planet) recommend this as the best way to see the sights of the bay. As we approached the bay by van, I was seriously in awe with the beauty that was before me. I know, totally cheezy, but I kid you not, dear friends - this was the most BEAUTIFUL and SPECTACULAR thing I have ever seen. I guess at one point it was on the ballot for one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Just imagine a body of water filled with over 3000 islands that are each reminiscent of Jurassic Park. And within some of these mounds of green, there are these majestic limestone caves that are absolutely remarkable. Not to mention the multitude of species of both flora and fauna that are found no where else but here.

We sailed on junks (I think they look like Pirate ships arrrrggggh), sun-bathed aboard them, kayaked and swam with jellyfish, hiked to one of the highest peaks on Cat Ba island (the largest island in the bay), and even saw mokeys with our naked eyes on, what else, Monkey Island.

It was an incredible delight and defintely worth every penny, which was only a mere $60 for all transfers, meals, lodging, activities, fees, etc. Can you believe that?

We had just a few hours back in Hanoi for some dinner, some beers, and a little internet time before we head off to Sapa for the next couple days.

I will try to post some pictures when we return to Hanoi on Monday.

Hanoi by foot

Sean decided to take command of the day and guided us quite smoothly through the a couple of sites in Hanoi. First stop: The Temple of Literature. Entrance fee: 31 cents.


It was founded in 1070 by Emperor Ly Thanh Tong, who dedicated it to Confucious to honor scholars and men of literary accomplishments. Six years later, Vietnam's first university was established here to educate sons of mandarins.

Then off we went to the Hoa lo Prison Museum, which was built in 1896 by the French. For another mere 31 cents (or 5000 VND) we wandered through the exhibits which were primarily focused on the Vietnamese struggle for independence from France. Surprisingly, very little was mentioned about its later use, which was for imprisoning U.S. POWs during the Vietnam War. This picture shows a somewhat clever and probably inexpensive way to prevent prisoners from escaping over the walls.

Having spent so much money or toursity attractions, Sean and I continuted to explore the city by foot, wandering the rest of Central Hanoi towards our hotel in the Old Quarter. We wandered through some street markets that featured hand made silks and sidewalk Pho, stopped at a cafe for our umpteenth Vietnamese iced coffee, and finally settled into a local eatery for some journal writing, people watching, and a bite to eat.