Siem Reap

We arrived in Cambodia a few days ago to a welcoming group of airport employees. We knew before leaving the States that we would need some additional passport size photos in order to obtain visas at the Cambodia and Thailand borders. Thinking that we would be able to pick up our checked luggage before applying for our visas, we left these pics in our bags. WRONG. What to do, what to do? The employees in the airport had a brilliant idea of just letting us through the visa checkpoint, essentially onto Cambodia grounds to grab our luggage and come right back through all the customs and passport checking lines. That would never fly in the U.S. and especially not Vietnam. That was just a precursor to the lackadaisical nature and the kindness we were about to discover with the Cambodian people.

But this hospitatlity and courtesy of the locals was found to be a bit overwhelming when we entered downtown Siem Reap. Even on the drive in from the airport we passed by many 4- and 5- star hotels and resorts, making the place seem more like a destination site in Mexico than some poverty-stricken country. Every establishment within a two-block radius of the main drag was strictly catered to Westerners. Some of the cafes, if in SF, would be considered "the place to be and be seen," that is how chic and flashy they are. There are faux "dive bars," upscale Italian restaurants, and even a Mexican joint complete with a happy hour special of $1 tacos and margaritas (you can bet we capitalized on that!). They are making sure that the American dollar is well spent. And yup, it is the American dollar they want to see, not the local currency of riels.

What a culture shock after being in Northern Vietnam for the first 10 days of our trip. I mean, we're not really backpacking or roughing it, we're living the life of luxury for a few bucks! But as we've spent a few more days here, it's all starting to become more clear. The people work in these establishments and make us, the tourists, as comfortable as possible and they do this with all sincerity. I venture that this means we will be more comfortable to spend our money and possibly spread the word as to how comfortable it is to travel here, perhaps even breaking the stigmas about travelling to this country.

But the truth is even though it may be cheap as well as comfortable, the people that do live here don't live in that same level of "comfort." They live as we imagined them to live but have created this illusion of Western niceties in order to bring forth the dollar. And to be honest, I can't blame them. It probably wasn't some Cambodian entrepreneur that had the clever idea of creating these luxuries for the travellers. Instead (and a mere speculation) it was probably another Westerner with decent marketing ideas who invested a little but is probably getting a lot in return, while only allowing the local profits to be minimal...minimal but more than a previous daily wage, so why wouldn't a Cambodian participate? Again, I don't blame them.

Anyhow, Sean and I have learned so much about the culture here...touring almost 15 temples in Angkor and beyond and having a suprising but intimate run-in with a Buddhist nun; visiting a floating village where a small population of Vietnamese live but can never leave because they have no visas or passports; learning via museums and even from our tuk-tuk driver the very recent and still raw history of Cambodia's civil war; and visiting a few of the many institutions that are devoted to the support and education of the children so that they can live of life they can be proud of and not become beggars (as there are many).

Those margaritas sure were tasty at first, but now we think twice about going into such establishments when just a few blocks from the city center are several food carts and stalls just waiting for a wandering American to give them a chance.

But wherever you decide to get your meal, if any of you decide to make your way southeast, tips are never expected but can go a long, long way. You may not ever remember that $2 tip you leave your server when you return to your home country, but it sure can make a profound difference in their lives.

Ok, lots of text...my apologies. Pictures to come.